Iron Man Weapack

you can buy at http://www.udreplicas.com/home/

Ride test with Honda PCX125

Got an invitation from the AHM to bloggers KoBoi, Saturday, June 26, 2010 with the theme “Riding Experience With PCX Honda 125.” at BONDIES Cafe & Lounge, Jl. Ampera Raya, Jakarta Selatan.

4 PCX motorcycles provided by AHM to do the tes on streets, Ok let do its..

PCX discuss the concept of this machine and I’ll try to summarize in the text below.

Styling :

At Honda, ‘small-displacement’ never means a compromise on comfort or style. The PCX is a perfect example of this principle. Its styling is youthful with a long, low and curvaceous shape. Its unique front face and the flowing lines of its bodywork give it a dynamic presence and a luxurious feel. By day, the PCX is a quick and convenient way to get around, for work or play. By night, it easily adapts to the smartest venues in the city. It can also whisk a rider, passenger and light luggage out of town for a weekend. Wherever it goes, its original styling and air of confidence give it the quality of a true trend-setter.

A dark-tinted windscreen gives the scooter a modern image as well as providing wind protection for the rider. Its sleek contours integrate perfectly with the full-bodied front cowl. Its dual headlight design is flanked by sleek, upward-slanting indicators, giving the front an exclusive look. The high-tech instrument panel has a speedometer needle that sweeps the dial at ignition, hinting at the fun to come. The cockpit also features an indicator for the engine’s innovative Idle Stop switch, a fuel indicator and other practical readouts, adding to the vehicle’s modern feel.

The scooter incorporates a low seat height and long, spacious footrests creating a secure and relaxed ride feel that complements its smooth performance. The comfortable seat incorporates back support for the rider and a generous pillion area. Underneath, its lockable storage compartment holds a full-face helmet with room to spare. In addition, a convenient glove box is provided at the front. If more storage space is needed, the rear carrier can also carry a standard 26-litre top box (not included).

Ducati Multistada VS BMW GS1200

When knowing ducati ENDURO released versions with capacities really surprised because the same engine with BMW GS1200 is the main rival.

we see from the table below if it can rival the greatness of the BMW GS1200

	Ducati Multistrada 1200 $14,995US	Ducati Multistrada 1200S $18,995US	2009 Multistrada 1100S $14,495US	2010 BMW R1200GS $14,750.00US MSRP	Note
Engine
Type	L-Twin cylinder, 4 valve per cylinder, Desmodromic, liquid cooled	L-Twin cylinder, 4 valve per cylinder, Desmodromic, liquid cooled	L-Twin cylinder, 2 valve per cylinder Desmodromic, air cooled	Air-cooled/oil-cooled Boxer twin-cylinder
Displacement	1198.4cc	1198.4cc	1078cc	1170 cc
Bore x Stroke	106×67.9mm	106×67.9mm	98 x 71.5 mm	101.0 mm x 73.0 mm
Compression Ratio	11,5:1	11,5:1	10.5:1	-4307:59
Power	150 CV – 150hp – 110,3kw @ 9250rpm	150CV- 150hp – 110,3kw @ 9250rpm	70 kw – 95 hp @ 7750 rpm	81 kW (110 hp) at 7,750 rpm
Torque	12,1kgm – 87,5lb-ft – 118,7Nm @7500rpm	12.1kgm – 87,5lb-ft – 118,7Nm @7500rpm	102.9 Nm – 10.5 kgm @ 4750 rpm	89lb-ft – 120 Nm at 6,000 rpm
Fuel injection	Mitsubishi electronic fuel injection system, Mikuni elliptical throttle bodies	Mitsubishi electronic fuel injection system, Mikuni elliptical throttle bodies	Marelli electronic fuel injection, 45 mm throttle body	Electronic intake pipe injection / BMS-K+ digital engine management with overrun fuel cut-off, twin spark ignition
Exhaust	Stainless steel muffler with catalytic converter and 2 lambda probes, alluminium tail pipes	Stainless steel muffler with catalytic converter and 2 lambda probes, alluminium tail pipes	Marelli electronic fuel injection, 45 mm throttle body
Transmission
Gearbox	6 speed	6 speed	6 speed	Constant mesh 6-speed gearbox
Ratio	1=37/15  2=30/17  3=27/20  4=24/22  5=23/24  6=22/25	1=37/15  2=30/17  3=27/20  4=24/22  5=23/24  6=22/25	1st 37/15, 2nd 30/17, 3rd 27/20, 4th 24/22, 5th 23/24, 6th 24/28	2.82:1 to 2.91:1 (lowered from previous models)
Primary drive	Straight cut gears, ratio 1.84:1	Straight cut gears, ratio 1.84:1	Straight cut gears; Ratio 1.84:1	helical gear teeth
Final drive	Chain 5.30″; Front sprocket 15; Rear sprocket 40	Chain 5.30″; Front sprocket 15; Rear sprocket 40	Chain; Front sprocket 15; Rear sprocket 42	Shaft drive
Clutch	Light action, wet, multiplate clutch with hydraulic control. Self-servo action on drive, slipper action on over-run.	Light action, wet, multiplate clutch with hydraulic control. Self-servo action on drive, slipper action on over-run.	Wet multiplate with hydraulic control	Single dry plate clutch, hydraulically operated
Chassis
Frame	Tubular steel Trellis frame	Tubular steel Trellis frame	Tubular steel Trellis frame	Two-section frame consisting of front and rear sections, load- bearing engine-gearbox unit
Wheelbase	1530mm	1530mm	1462 mm / 57.6 in	1,507 mm
Rake	25°	25°	24°
Steering lock	76°	76°
Front suspension	Marzocchi 50mm fully adjustable USD forks	Ohlins 48mm fully adjustable USD forks, electronic compression and rebound adjustment	Ohlins 43 mm fully adjustable upside-down fork with TiN	BMW Motorrad Telelever; stanchion diameter 41 mm, central spring strut, spring preload with 5-position mechanical adjustment
Front wheel travel	170mm (6.7in)	170mm (6.7in)	165 mm / 6.5 in	190 mm
Front wheel	10-spoke in light alloy 3.50 x 17	10-spoke in light alloy 3.50 x 17	6-spoke in light alloy 3.50 x 17	2.50 x 19″ Cast aluminum wheels
Front tyre	120/70 ZR 17	120/70 ZR 17	120/70 ZR 17	110/80 R 19
Rear suspension	Progressive linkage with fully adjustable Sachs monoshock. Aluminium single-sided swingarm	Progressive linkage with fully adjustable Ohlins electronic monoshock. Aluminium single-sided swingarm	Progressive linkage with fully adjustable Ohlins monoshock; hydraulic remote pre-load control. Aluminium single-sided swingarm	Cast aluminium single-sided swing arm with BMW Motorrad Paralever; WAD strut (travel-related damping), spring pre-load hydraulically adjustable (continuously variable) at handwheel, rebound damping adjustable
Rear wheel travel	170mm (6.7in)	170mm (6.7in)	141 mm / 5.6 in	200 mm
Rear wheel	10-spoke light alloy 6,00 x 17	10-spoke light alloy 6,00 x 17	5-spoke light alloy 5.50 x 17	4.00 x 17″ Cast aluminum wheels
Rear tyre	190/55 ZR 17	190/55 ZR 17	180/55 ZR 17	150/70 R 17
Front brake	2 x 320mm semi-floating discs, radially mounted Brembo callipers, 4-piston, 2-pad. ABS optional	2 x 320mm semi-floating discs, radially mounted Brembo callipers, 4-piston, 2-pad. ABS as standard equipment	2 x 320 mm semi-floating discs, 4-piston, 2-pad caliper	Dual disc brake, floating brake discs, diameter 305 mm, 4-piston fixed calipers
Rear brake	245mm disc, 2-piston calliper	245mm disc, 2-piston calliper	245 mm disc, 2-piston caliper	Single disc brake, diameter 265 mm, double-piston floating caliper
Fuel tank capacity	20l – 5.3 gallon (US)	20l – 5.3 gallon (US)	20 L (of which 6.5 l reserve) / 5.3 US gal (of which 1.7 US gal reserve)	20 l
Dry weight (excludes lubricants and battery)	189kg (417lb) – No ABS	192kg (423lb – Sport Edition	196 kg / 432 lbs	203 kg
Wet weight	217kg (478lb) – No ABS	220kg (485lb) – Sport Edition		229 kg
Seat height	850 mm	850 mm	850 mm / 33.5 in	850 / 870 mm (low seat 820 mm, lowered suspension 790 mm)
Max height	1400 mm	1400 mm
Max length	2150 mm	2150 mm	2130 mm	2,210 mm
Versions	Dual seat, ABS optional	Dual seat, ABS as standard equipment available in two packages: -SPORT (Cam belt covers, air intake and hugger in carbon fibre) -TOURING (side panniers, heated grips and center stand)

Review BMW T-Shirt & BMW City Pants

when see this shirt direct always remember of pants BMW City with colour pattern that much the same to direct mindlessly I buy it at the price of IDR. 159.000 quite expensive nevertheless not  problem

i like this BMW logo

BMW City Pant

his pants condura jeans and balmy use when in city, with protektor thigh, knee makes this pants comfort to use.

Features :
he City trousers reflect true urban style and are just the right companion for the big city. The Cordura®/denim mixture ensures optimum wear comfort and the sporty design simply makes you feel good. These are trousers that look great anywhere – not just on the bike.
For more information on body types and apparel options designed for you, watch the What’s Your Body Type Video

* Highly functional Cordura®/denim mixture
* Newly developed CE-NP knee protectors, adjustable to two levels and removable
* NP hip protectors
* Three zip pockets, one cargo pocket
* Velcro® fastener and zips on legs
* Continuously width-adjustable fabric belt

this video

for buy this pants
http://www.ascycles.com/

Review Polo Drive Jacket

I bought this nevertheless at the time I get pants beforehand nevertheless has sold to a friend.

polo is one of producer apperal either my jacket or pants even also already 3 times have jacket from this polo..
Features of Polo Drive Jacket:

* 100% waterproof, windproof and breathable due to POLO-TEX ventilation membrane
* Removable thermal quilted lining
* Arm and jacket band width can be set individually
* 4 outside pockets, inside pocket.
* Connection zip for trousers

this front of jacket with 4 outside pockets, inside pocket.

Skill For Life

when read darwin arya journal about first accident mm. i think this post correct for that accident..

http://darwinarya.wordpress.com/2009/03/22/my-accident/

Where’s the Risk in that..?

You are about to be shown a picture of a real-life road scene.

Test your hazard awareness skills by studying the picture and making a
note of how many hazards you can spot.

(Remember, as a motorcyclist, you will need to identify each of these hazards as fast as possible
when out and about on real roads).

Ok, let’s get started…

Count how many risks you can spot in this next road scene…

Scene 1

Count how many hazards you can spot in this road scene…

Once you have identified and counted as many as you can, continue scene..

Reveal Dangers or Hide Dangers

Scroll down to see the Hazards in that:

1. This section of the road has been repaired in the past, but now large cracks and holes are appearing. Watch out for loose debris here too.

2. No pavement for pedestrians on this side of the road. There is a pavement on the other side but judging by those tracks in the grass, this is obviously a regular short-cut.

3. Look at that debris. If you’re turning left into this junction, be very careful here – That stuff looks very slippery!

4. The junction itself. Keep an eye for vehicles emerging – If there is, has the driver seen YOU.

5. Is that a man-hole cover? Avoid them where possible, especially in the wet and on bends.

6. What’s that car doing? It looks like the back of the car too. That driver won’t be able to see anything if he reverses out now!

7. That looks like a driveway, or perhaps a bridleway. Just keep an eye out here. Something may emerge without warning.

Scene 2

Count how many hazards you can spot in this road scene…
Once you have identified and counted as many as you can, .

Reveal Dangers or Hide Dangers
1. No pavement for pedestrians on either side of the road. With houses also visible in this scene, it’s possible that pedestrians may need to walk along the road.

2. It looks like the hedge has recently been cut along this stretch leaving debris, which has become damp.
Although using advanced riding techniques, you wouldn’t even be riding in this position on the road for this particular bend, it is still worth remembering that this stuff is very SLIPPERY!

3. This section of the road has had some pipe relaying work of some description carried out here. Although not visible in the picture at this point on the road, watch out for the dreaded tar over-banding.

4. That’s probably a man-hole cover, judging by the direction of the road repairs. Avoid them wherever possible, especially in the wet and here on bends such as this.

5. The turning for the house. Keep an eye out for vehicles/bicycles/children/pedestrians/anything emerging – If there is, have they seen YOU.

6. The bend itself. Get into the correct position on the road to tackle the direction of the bend in good time. Give yourself as much of a view around it as possible – because the more you can see, the sooner you can deal with any hazards.

7. Somewhere along there is going to be another driveway for that house. Be prepared, whilst going around that bend – Anything emerging from the driveway will not have a very good view around, and will take time to accelerate away.

8. Do you think you could deal with all of the above hazards at 60mph+..? Do you think you could come knee-sliding around this bend..?
Hazard ’8′ is the reason you couldn’t. Click continue to find out what the eighth hazard is – The one you may have missed…

Scene 3

Did YOU spot them..?!

We hope you have enjoyed testing your hazard awareness.
How well did you do..?

An important point to remember:
If you were actually riding down these road scenes, you would have just a few seconds to identify, sort, and adapt your riding to take these hazards into consideration.

Taking an advanced riding course, like the one we provide, will ensure doing this becomes
second nature to you..

and report your accident report.. download the form here

rgs

Learn how to sit on your bike

Few, if any of us, were taught how to sit on a motorcycle. Or much of anything for that matter. As a result, we just go with what our bodies learned (squatting if we grew up in Asia, “sitting up straight” if we grew up here in the big PX) or what the motorcycle designers had in mind.
If you spend any time at all around motorcycles you can intuit what the designers had in mind for your body by looking at the placement of the controls (and I include the seat in this list).

* Sport Bikes want your weight forward (load the front wheel) and your butt off the saddle so you can move laterally on the saddle. So that’s how they’re set-up: pegs high, bars (clip-ons) low
* Sport-Touring, Standards, and Touring bikes all have in mind the “sit up and beg” riding posture. The details of control placement are different but in general, you look in profile like you’re reaching for the mashed potatoes. Your weight tends to be on your butt, or more specifically the base of your spine via your hips.
* Cruisers promote anything from a “sit up and beg” to “sit back and relax” riding position with hands placed anywhere from here to there . . . same with your feet.
* Dirt bikes and big Trailees have in mind that you’ll spend more or all your time on your feet and the bars, in particular, are place accordingly.

If you have any desire to ride for more than a couple of hours on any of the many Sport-Touring or Standard bikes that are popular with us “mid-life” riders, it’s time you actually learned how to sit properly if you hope to survive in style. Towards that, you may have run across this thread elsewhere. If not, you’re in luck. riding position.

The keynotes to “the” Riding Position are:

* Bend at the HIPS, not waist
* Maintain a SLIGHT arch to the back, not allowing it ever to “curve”
* Move the butt AFT so the weight is OVER YOUR FEET.
* Apply pressure to the feet, using the THIGH muscles, so you are sitting “lightly”
* ELBOWS BENT, now DROP the hands to the bars.

One needs to move fore and aft on the seat to make ALL those things happen. Except for the Hip Bend, they are NOT Absolutes, but rather RANGES. Move about until you can see ALL of them are happening to some extent — and NO weight is being placed on the handlebars.

Do this when the bike is STATIONARY. Sit on the stopped bike. TAKE TIME TO do this. PRACTICE. LEARN.

In fact, one must TEACH their own body. This is called TRAINING. You’ll notice all GOOD training is done by ABSTRACT EXERCISES, not “just running off to the playing field and doing what you HEARD.”

LEARN to press down with the feet. Then, when riding, CHECK that’s what you are actually doing. You SHOULD be able to lift your butt off the seat at a milisecond’s notice: As when knowingly approaching a severe bump in the road.

LEARN to bend at the hips. Do it BOTH ways, and show YOURSELF that you CAN operate the body differently. BE WILLING to touch that frigging gas tank. SOME people are incredibly fearful of touching a gas tank — It’s almost laughable. WHO SAID you shouldn’t touch the gas tank? (Afraid of scratches? Poo, poo. Get some clear tank protector.) Better to think “The gas tank is my FRIEND.” It WILL be some day when you are six hundred miles into your ride and still two hundred miles from your destination. OR, while you are LEARNING to ride this bike and may be only an hour or so into your ride. Your body is NOT YET… TRAINED to operate that way.

FLOP YOUR ELBOWS. PROVE you have your weight supported, mostly by your feet, and by your butt. Do it while riding too. Even after 25,000 miles on an RS I STILL end up leaning onto the bars somewhat and need to readjust my position.

Practice this. It works.